In the realm of blended malt whiskies, a category once adorned with the epithet “vatted malt,” the ascent foretold has, alas, eluded its prophesied destiny. The intricacies of this categorization—blends comprising multiple malt whiskies sans the inclusion of grain whiskies, a distinction that sets it apart from the ubiquitous “blended Scotch” archetype—prove, regrettably, too esoteric for the palate of the average consumer. Amongst the contenders in this niche, Compass Box has etched its mark, although not all of their elixirs fall under the blended malt banner. Wemyss, too, has carved a specialized niche in crafting middle- to high-tier blended malts. Yet, standing stalwart in this category is the venerable Monkey Shoulder, an offering from the venerable William Grant & Sons, priced at a modest $25 to $30.
My sincerest apologies to my devoted readers and fellow seekers of value, for I have committed a lapse in my literary duty by delaying the introduction of Monkey Shoulder until this moment. Cease reading henceforth, and procure a bottle if you have not experienced its virtues. While it may not claim the apogee of whisky excellence, its commendable quality at such a modest price merits a prominent place in the home bar of one and all.
The nomenclature “Batch 27” pays homage to the initial experimental blending of 27 casks, a tradition upheld as runs of Monkey Shoulder are orchestrated 27 casks at a time, albeit without individual batch numbering. The amalgamation comprises malt from William Grant & Sons’ triumvirate of distilleries nestled in Dufftown, Speyside: Glenfiddich, The Balvenie, and Kininvie (the latter standing on the grounds of The Balvenie, its malt largely destined for blends). All three progenies mature in “first-fill” ex-bourbon casks, occasionally welcoming undisclosed malts into their harmonious vatting. Alas, the ages of these elixirs remain undisclosed, though the inference leans toward youthfulness.
For those intrigued, “Monkey Shoulder” bears the weighty moniker of a shoulder ailment afflicting maltsters laboring long hours upon the malting floor. The olfactory journey unfurls with the crisp, lucid embrace of malty grains, akin to the essence of beer, accompanied by a modicum of lemon. Absent are intrusive nose-tickles or the weighty fragrance of oak; instead, a delicate sweetness envelops the senses, rounding out the experience. With a patient repose in the glass, a rich stratum of vanilla extract unveils itself.
The palate embarks on a voyage with an initial surge of lemon peel and caramel, a fleeting tongue-tingling sensation making a brief appearance before giving way to nougat, mineral water reminiscent of tonic with herbal undertones of quinine, and a veneer of vanilla frosting.
The denouement, alas, is fleetingly short. Nougat reigns supreme, its nutty sweetness dissipating swiftly, leaving behind a waning whisper of dry oaky tannins and a touch of charcoal, instigating a desire for improved equilibrium. A judicious addition of water enhances the citrus notes in the aroma, coalescing harmoniously with the vanilla, reminiscent of lemon salt-water taffy. The palate, relieved of its initial burn, assumes a more rounded demeanor—a suggestion I ardently endorse.
In summation, Monkey Shoulder emerges as the libation to present to those acquaintances who, in their innocence, equate “whisky” with a mere accomplice to Coke. An amiable introduction to the universe of malt whisky, it extends a genial hand to the palate, revealing a welcoming profile adorned with an array of grains and confections, exemplifying the quintessence of commendable middle-of-the-road ex-bourbon Scotch malt whisky. Admittedly, the finish could aspire to greater equilibrium, and the aroma might benefit from heightened notes of lemony and fruity essence—quibbles, however, inconsequential at this price point. Its versatility renders it a steadfast fixture in the “low end” echelon of your cabinet—a libation for easy sipping on the rocks, a contemplative mulling in a tulip glass post repast, or, if the inclination arises, a potential ingredient for mixological alchemy, a practice actively encouraged by the brand. A polymath in the realm of spirits, it attains proficiency in myriad roles but lays no claim to mastery in any one.
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